The Subway

The Seoul subway is super easy to use, and it is a wonderful form of transportation that can get you just about anywhere in Seoul. The entire map of the subway is in each station both in Korean and in English, so it’s easy to navigate. Once you have paid, there are more detailed maps where the subway cars arrive. These maps will let you know where to transfer and what car is best to get in when transferring.

To get a ticket for the subway, there are ticket machines inside of each station. All machines have an English language option available, so it’s easy to use and get a ticket for where you need to go. Simply click on One-Way Ticket and select the station that you want to go, and then insert your money. If staying long-term in Seoul though, getting a T-Money card is recommended. With a T-Money card, riding the subway is cheaper and way easier because you don’t have to stand in line every time you want to ride the train. A T-Money card can be bought at most 7-11’s and can be bought at several subway stations. A T-Money card dispenser is different from a ticket dispenser. It will usually advertise that it’s a T-Money card dispenser. The cost of a T-Money card is 3000 원 (“won” pronounced ‘wahn’) and it also comes with a coupon pack exclusively for foreigners. You’ll have to recharge your T-Money card every once and a while though. To recharge your card, simply go to one of the ticket dispensing machines and put your card in the big spot that says “T-Money”, click the English language, select card recharge and the amount that you want to put on your T-Money card, and then insert the amount selected. Wait for the machine to prompt you that the card has recharged and you’re ready to go! Another great thing about T-money cards is that they not only can be used in the subway, but that can be used on buses, taxis, and even some convenience stores and department stores as well. It’s a must have for transportation in Seoul.

The cost of one subway ticket is 1000 won (or roughly $1) for the first 30 minutes and 100 won for each additional 10 minutes. A ticket machine is available at each station and will cost 1500 won or more depending on the length of your trip. After leaving the subway, there will be machine where you can return you ticket for a 500 won refund. With a T-Money card, it’s 900 won for the first 30 minutes on the train and 100 won for each additional 10 minutes, and you don’t have to go through the hassle of retuning your ticket every time.

To get around the subway though, you will have to do some transferring. Transferring is fairly simple with Seoul’s grid-like structure. When transferring to a different line, look out for that line’s color on the wall. For example, if you’re transferring to line 6 heading towards Korea University Station, you’ll want to look out for the burnt orange line that runs across the wall. Follow the arrows in the line, and it will take you to the line that you need. But be careful! Most of the time, the cars for a particular line are in the same spot, but sometimes, they are on other ends of the station so to speak. Also, each line has two cars running in opposite directions, so watch out for both of these or you’ll end up going in the opposite direction that you want to go. So, when transferring, look for the last subway stop on each side of the line, and then remember the last station for the direction that you want to go in. This works best when the subway line is separated, but when the subway cars are together, the last station isn’t listed and you have to look at the subway line’s map to know which direction you want to go to. It’s sounds hard, but after two or three times on the subway, it’ll become super easy to navigate.

Here are some things to look out for though in the Seoul subway:

The subway is jam packed during rush hours which are 7:30-9:00 a.m. and 5-6:30 p.m. so try to avoid those hours if possible, just for comfort reasons. Last train is from about 12:00-12:30 a.m. Mon.-Thu. and 11:30-12:00 a.m. Fri.-Sun. varying from station to station. Last train is always crowded but if intoxicated or if you don’t want to spend money on a taxi, try to make last train. First train is 5:30-6:00, so if after a late night, you decide you don’t want to pay for a cab, just wait around the station until the train arrives (a favorite is going to McDonald’s or Burger King for most, but others enjoy going inside the station and sleeping on the benches until the train arrives).

Another subway warning is the older people. The last six seats on each end of each car are reserved specifically for the elderly, so do not sit in these seats. It is also polite that if all those reserved seats are taken to give up your spot for an elder person (as well as a pregnant woman, small children, or someone who is disabled). The elderly can also be quite rough on the subway when it comes to getting a seat on the crowded cars. Old women are known for their deadly elbows: when someone is in their way on the subway, some will elbow you to get you to move out of the way. Since Korean women are quite short and the older women hunch over to boot, the elder women’s elbow are quite literally on par with the groin area for many westerners. I have had quite a good jab or two to the baby-maker to make me keel over and gasp for breath. Old women can also be very violent when it comes to getting on and off the subway. They will have their elbows locked, ready to jab anyone who gets in their way of entering of leaving the subway car, so beware. Older men are not as “violent” as the women, but they are known to take their thumbs and jam it into the spines of the men who get in their way. Thankfully I am a woman so I have never experienced this, but a quite a few of my male friends have.

Another warning is something that you won’t be able to do anything about it. If you’re a westerner (with no Asian looks), you will be stared at wherever you go. This can sometimes get uncomfortable on the subway when Korean purist (i.e. a Korean who thinks Korea should only be for Koreans) gets on. Usually, they’ll just mutter mean things under their breath, or menacingly glare at you. Occasionally though, as I’ve experienced, you’ll get one that wants to turn it into a fight. One night my friends and I were coming home from a movie and an old, drunk, Korean man got on the train. He instantly came up to our tall, American friend and started yelling at him. The old man even went to the point of knocking off our friend’s hat. The best thing to do in this situation is simply to walk away and go to another car. The worst thing to do is to get into a full-on confrontation. If a foreigner gets into a fight with a Korean, no matter who started it, the foreigner runs a high risk of getting deported. Keep that in mind when a Korean tries to fight you.

Other than extremists, you also have to think about people who are just, well, crazy. The other day I was on my way home from school when an old woman got on. Her eyes got really wide, and she started pointing at me. I looked around to see if I was doing anything wrong, like standing in the aisle or blocking her or someone else’s way, but I wasn’t. The woman slowly walked around me, pointing and staring at me the whole time. As she did, it caught the whole train car’s attention and now I have 30+ people staring at me. I take out my earphones to try and hear if she’s saying anything to me, but she’s not. Eventually, everyone realizes that I’m doing nothing wrong and they ignore the woman who is very obviously mentally unstable. The woman continues to stare and point at me for two stops until she gets off, but she makes sure that her eyes and her finger are pointed at me until I finally leave her line of site. Honestly, it was the weirdest experience I’ve ever had on the subway, and though I don’t think that this is something that would be a common occurrence, just be aware that things like that could happen.

Though it can be confusing at first, the subway is great tool to get around Seoul, so utilize it. After a week or two, using the subway will be like second nature, and very little confusion will remain.

A great site to use though, if confusion arises is: http://www.visitkorea.or.kr/ena/TR/TR_EN_5_1_4.jsp

This site lists all of the Seoul Subway stops and the time it takes to get from one station to another. It makes a wonderful tool for getting around, and I found myself using it on a near daily basis.