The following contains a letter to my grandfather. He served in the 1st Calvary Div. of the US between 1961-63. While there, he helped train South Korean soldiers. This is a letter sent to my grandfather from one the Korean soldiers serving under him.
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Transcript Page 1:
"15 July, 1964 "Dear Sir, "How does it fare with you in this unbearably rainy season? "I am delightful to say that my family and I are all well. "I am sincerely sorry for not writing to you sooner. Already it is three weeks since I was discharged from the Army. "All the nicest words would not be enough to express to you my feelings of gratitude for your kindness that you have rendered me during my Army life at the 1st Calvary Div. "Especially I would like to take this opportunity of becoming more acquainted with you, a man of noble character. Maybe I cannot forget you forever. "You are really respectable man among persons whom I know. I remember that you tried to understand the Korean and you did your best for me and the 79th RCT. "Do you have a picture of yourself that you could send me?
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Transcript Page 2:
" I hope I can keep your picture in my house. "The other day I took entering examination for the official of Global Travel Service. "To my surprise, competition of the examination 50 to 1 was marked. "What was stronger competition, those who were passed by the standard of the written application could take examination. "It is a pity that I couldn't repay you for your kindness. "I can get job now at school as teacher, if I want, but I am studying for some examination in coming Fall. "When will you go home, sir? "Trusting that you are one enjoying your usual good health and looking forward to your reply, I remain, dear sir. "Cordially yours, Choi (?) T.T. "P.s. Please remember me to all PIO men, sir."
All photos were taken by my grandfather during the reconstruction of South Korea after the Korean war. These photos were taken between 1961-1963.
Two North Korean soldiers at the DMZ
A breastfeeding mother
A shot of the 1st Calvary division of the US Army, which my grandfather served in.
The DMZ
A couple saving their year's supply of kimchi from a flood.
Wongudan Alter in Seoul
Juye Valley. According to the photo description, 30 American and Korean soldiers lost their lives here in a flood.
From the photo description: Two Korean orphans from the war accepting blankets on behalf of their orphanage. This was a part of "Operation Warmth" where the US Army gave blankets and coats to the orphaned Korean children.
A girl washing laundry.
According to the photo description: "Just outside of Seoul. The woman hurriedly threw a jacket over her when I took her picture. I tried to get her naked from the waist up. She stuck her tongue out at me, too. Note the rugged countryside in the background."
Three North Korean soldiers at the DMZ
Two orphans participating in "Operation Warmth".
According to the photo description: "Papasan of Pong Il-Chong"
Remarks: This leaflet was designed for Plan Strike.
Artwork: Photo showing explosions of bombs
Front
Text: "YOU WERE WARNED"
Back
Text (from right to left): "COMMUNIST MILITARY TARGETS "DESTROYED "The UNC warned you that the Communist military targets un this area would be destroyed. "Many of them have been destroyed--Others will continue to be destroyed. "You can see with your own eyes the power of the UNC air forces. And remember this--if the Communists again build military installations and store war materials with this area, UNC fighters and bombers will again destroy them. We were able to warn you the first time. The UNC may not be able to warn you of the next air strike. "WHERE IS THE COMMUNIST AIR FORCE? "Did your rulers send their airplanes to protect you? Or is their talk of an air force just 'so much wind'? "Before the bombing the UNC gave you ample warning to save your life. Here is another warning. "SOME OF THE BOMBS DROPPED IN THE RAID WILL NOT EXPLODE IMMEDIATELY. THEY ARE SET TO GO OFF HOURS AND DAYS LATER. "Do no go near the danger area--you will only risk your life."
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Leaflet (divisive) designed to alienate North Koreans from their communist regime by showing that its army brings danger to civilian life and property.
Artwork:
Front: Illustration of NKA troops occupying a civilian house.
Back: Illustration of NKA troop billet being bombed by UN planes.
Front
Text:
"If you take the People's Army into your house, you expose yourself to another's death.
"AS A HUNTER TRAPS HIS GAME,
"THE UN BOMBERS ALWAYS TRAP THE PEOPLE'S ARMY!"
Back
Text: "Wherever the People's Army may go, they will be hit like this. "KEEP THE PEOPLE'S ARMY AWAY FROM YOU! "TELL THEM THERE IS A CONTAGIOUS DISEASE IN YOUR HOUSE!"
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Reports currently indicate that the Communist troops constantly complain of their lack of trained replacements. This leaflet is designed to frighten the replacements, and agitate the veteran soldier's attitude.
Artwork: Illustration of bewildered soldiers looking at replacements of half uniformed farmers who carry weapons and farm implements.
Front
Text:
"Your highly trained replacements have arrived!"
Back
Text (right to left): "ANOTHER EMPTY PROMISE "Where are the highly trained replacements the Communists promised you soldier? "Usually when you receive replacements they are inexperienced and bewildered--bewildered because instead of finding the 'inferior' enemy the Communists talk about, these replacements find powerful UN forces. "Most of you replacements will be annihilated in battle, while your veterans who have suffered for many months will continue to carry the brunt of the battle. "OPEN YOUR EYES SOLDIER-- "SEE THROUGH THE COMMUNIST LIES!"
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Second in series of leaflets on medical care.
Art Work: Wounded enemy soldier visualizing food, a fire and medical aid.
Front
Text: "Will help come?"
Back
Text (right to left):
"If you were wounded in battle or grow seriously ill this winter, what will happen to you?
"You know you have little chance of reaching a hospital, because when your leaders think that you are no longer any use to them, they leave you to care for yourselves, or die alone.
"The United Nations give Korean prisoners of war the same good medical treatment they give their own troops.
"Think about this! It is your duty to your family and Korea to stay alive and healthy. Don't wait until you are wounded.
"Escape now---Save your life!"
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Semi-tactical leaflet directed at new enemy units on the battlefront.
Front
Right hand text:
"WARNING!
"NORTH KOREAN REPLACEMENT TROOPS..."
Left hand text: "YOU ARE BEING LEAD TO YOUR DEATH" (direct translation: "Do you know there will be dead bodies in front of you?)
Back
Text translation (from right to left): "BATTLEFIELD INFORMATION FOR THE NORTH KOREAN REPLACEMENT SOLDIER "WHAT WILL I FACE? "YOU WILL FACE: "The bloodiest battlefield in the history of war. The greatest number of nations ever allied together to destroy a single force. Liquid-fire bombs, tanks and flame-throwers--with only the rifle you hold in your hand to combat them. "WHY AM I HERE? "Because thousands and thousands of North Korean soldiers who proceeded you have lost their lives and you are being sent into the human sea to replace them. "WHAT THEN SHALL I DO? "Many thousands of wise North Korean officers and men who came before you have found ways of escaping secretly and crossing over as friends to the United Nations lines. They are living happily and receiving the good treatment guaranteed by the United Nations. "YOU HAVE A CHOICE--- "LIFE-----OR DEATH?
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Leaflet designed to induce the farmers not to work for the communists.
Front
Text:
"The Communist Squeeze!"
Back
Left hand black box text:
"Farmers of Hwang Hae Do
Center black box text:
"Don't work for the communists!
Hide your grain!"
Left hand picture text:
"Official Tax"
Center picture text:
"Volunteer donations"
Labels on bags as follows:
Agriculture Instructors
Propagandists
Self-Defense Squad
Cell Chairmen
Appraisal Committee
People's committee
Right hand picture text:
"Farmer's reward!"
Text on farmer's leaflet:
"Hero"
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Leaflet designed to emphasize poor footwear issued by CCF, encourage defection.
Front
Text:
"Can you keep your feet warm and dry?"
Back
Text: "Save your life now! "Escape to the UN side or escape to the rear. "Tomorrow may be too late!" *These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
"This Korean communist soldier, now safe behind the UN lines, enjoys hot rice with side dishes, each day. Along with thousands of his comrades he no longer suffers hunger during the long marches he once had to make.
"With his stomach filled with hot rice and vegetables he now enjoys life away from the war.
"But what about you, soldier?
"Why be hungry this fall when the UN offers you an abundance of good food?"
"SAVE YOUR LIFE--ESCAPE TO THE UN LINES!!" *These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Surrender Appeal leaflet, pointing out to enemy troops the contrast between the artillery and air power they will face and the good treatment they could receive in a prisoner camp.
Front
Text:
"TIME IS RUNNING OUT!"
"The UN forces opposing you are getting stronger every day. More and more tanks and artillery arrive each day to be used against you. More planes appear in the skies each day to strafe your columns and bomb your positions. The odds against you are increasing sharply. Time is short.
"Life or death is your choice. You will have no chance against massed tanks, artillery, and aircraft. Surrender while there is still time. Your life will be safe.You will get food, medicinal care, and rest. The United Nations guarantees you this good treatment. Live to help your family and to build a strong and free Korea.
"SURRENDER NOW!"
Back
Center Text:
"THIS IS YOUR CHOICE"
Top left hand picture text:
"To fight against heavy odds"
(photograph of UN airplanes in flight)
"And be bombed and strafed by planes"
Bottom left hand picture text:
"And pounded by heavy artillery"
(photograph of UN artillery arriving on Korean dock)
Top right hand text:
"To surrender now"
(photograph of North Korean prisoners eating)
"And have plenty of food"
Bottom right hand text:
"And prompt medical care"
(photograph medical care)
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: Leaflet (divisive) 4th in a series of "Think" leaflets designed to alienate affection on the part of the Chinese soldier for his communist master by showing him that the present regime is responsible for the inflation prices back in China.
This leaflet targets the Chinese who are under Mao's communist rule.
Front
Translation:
"Think! Think! Think!"
Back
Text on the right:
"Think!The Chinese Communist boast of their production quotas, but the people of China are becoming poorer and poorer."
Upper left hand corner text: "BLAME THE CHINESE COMMUNISTS FOR YOUR FAMILIES MISERY!"
Balloon (Man): "Why do we have to pay for so much for such a small amount of rice?"
Thought Bubble (Man): "THINK!"
Bags labeled: "Rice"
Note: The following message in the Korean language appears on one side: "This is a message from the UN to the CCF. Post it for them to see."
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Remarks: To stimulate individual soldier's fear of UN's material superiority in meeting an attack.
Page 1: Front
(Photo graph of B-29. The suspended bombs lead to the following headline.)
Headline:
"These bombs of fire wait you when you next attack."
Right text:
"Because your Communist leaders refuse to stop fighting, they force UN troops to use every powerful weapon against you when you next attack. Have you heard about your next attack?"
Left text:
"In your next attack you will meet our fire bombs, flame throwers and destructive artillery. Many of you will not survive the Communist sea offensive...
...but you can if you come over to the UN side and save your life."
Page 2: Back
Photograph of a rail yard in flames.
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Over the next few days, I will be posting some amazing leaflets that the UN distributed during the Korean War. The point of these leaflets was to try and encourage North Korean citizens to end the war and/or defect to the South. Thank you to my grandfather for keeping these amazing peices of history in such good condition.
Target: Students of Hwagae Province Administrator's staff school.
Remarks: Leaflet designed to instruct students how they may help their people and to warn them against following in the footsteps of present administrators.
Page 1 (front)
Hands are the names of various administrators in the Hwagae province.
The text on the side reads:
"These men rob your people!"
"Don't be like these men!"
"Help your people!"
Page 1 (Back)
Heading: FIGHT FOR THE POOR FARMER!
Translation:
1) Assess the farmer's crops lower than the actual amount
2) Oppose collective farming (rest of translation too faded to read)
3) Submit lower tax quotas to the government
4) Don't register all the farmer's livestock
5) Let the farmer have his well earned rest. Don't conscript him for labor details.
Bottom text translation:
"HELP YOUR PEOPLE!
HELP YOUR NATION OVERCOME COMMUNIST OPPRESSION!"
*These posters come from my grandfather. He was assigned by the US Army to the United Nations as an information officer during the Korean War for which he was awarded the Bronze Star.*
Christmas in Korea is a bit of a special thing. It's celebrated, yet it's not celebrated, and the way in which it's celebrated is completely different from how we celebrate in the west.
Christmas has really changed a lot since when I first came here 3 years ago. Actually, the first Christmas I celebrated here, I don't think I saw a single Christmas tree. But now, 3 years later, there are Christmas trees and decorations filling streets of Sinchon. Stores all over are playing Christmas music. Hell, there was even a Christmas market a few weeks ago. The Christmas spirit is actually here!
Now why is this surprising to me?
Here in Korea, Christmas isn't exactly traditionally celebrated. In the west, it's a religious holiday and family holiday. We get together with our families, open presents, and eat a huge dinner. But here in Korea, it's a couples' holiday. Christmas day is probably the biggest couple holiday of the year. Christmas is the day where couples flood the streets, look lovingly into each other's eyes, and pay for ridiculously over-priced meals and motels. So romantic.
Because Christmas is a couples' holiday, there generally isn't much Christmas spirit here in Korea. In the past, you might have seen a tree or two, maybe heard a Christmas song (but that was only played on Christmas day). But this year, people seem to really be embracing Christmas. Kind of.
I was walking this evening with my Korean friend excitedly talking about all of the Christmas trees and music and how it reminded me of home and family. My friend was generally confused as to why I would think of my family on Christmas. For my friend, Christmas is purely a couple's holiday. While I was happy about the Christmas spirit, he was depressed about it because he doesn't have a girlfriend.
This of course isn't to say that all Koreans treat Christmas like a couples' holiday. There are many churches that put on Christmas plays and celebrate on Christ on Christmas Eve and day. Yet they are in the minority.
So even while the spectacle of Christmas is growing here, it seems that the meaning isn't changing. It still isn't about the birth of Christ or being with family; Christmas is still a Valentine's Day like holiday that is just an excuse to go on a nice date with your significant other.
The word Gyopo (교포) is my least favorite word in
the Korean language. Gyopo means a Korean who was not born and/or raised in Korea.
For me, gyopo is a word that is filled with hate. Censuses show that roughly 7
million Koreans live abroad. With 50 million Koreans living in the South Korean
peninsula, by using the term “gyopo,” Koreans effectively isolate 8% of its
population.
For any person living abroad, it can be difficult. You long
for home and miss everyday familiarities. Children born from immigrants
oftentimes visit their home country rarely, if at all. So, for many who are the
children of immigrants, there is often a sense of loss. Yes, they were born in this
country, but in reality they are from another. This tends to be the case with
my Korean American friends; they call themselves American, but at the same
time, their true home is Korea. Yet with the word “gyopo,” it turns many
Koreans away from Korea.
Gyopo is a harsh word. It’s a word that really pushes Korea’s
homogeneous mentality—you’re only Korean if your parents are Korean and you’re
born in Korea. For my Korean American friends whom I have here in Korea, life can
be a bit of a struggle.
One of my good friends is a so-called “gyopo.” Though he was
born in Korea and has even done his military duty, he is still “gyopo”—not Korean.
He speaks Korean fluently, with no accent, yet the Koreans around him reject
him. He’s not Korean, he’s American. He dresses like an American, he talks like
an American, he acts like an American. He’s not Korean. He’s American. We often
have lunch together and he will tell me how often he is rejected. His Korean
friends don’t want to have drinks with him or dinner with him. When working in
group projects, he’s treated as the foreigner, not as a Korean. A family friend
offered to set him up with his friend’s daughter but warned my friend, “Treat
her like a Korean. You’re American, but you need to be Korean around her.” When
he said these words he became depressed. He is
Korean. He was born in Korea. Yet he did not grow up here. Therefore, he will
never truly be Korean.
Many Koreans who live or were born abroad face the same
struggles that my friend does. Often times, they don’t socialize with native Koreans,
they socialize amongst themselves. Even in their “home” country, they are
isolated. While not all non-native Koreans are treated like this, the vast
majority are.
The largest population of non-native Koreans is located in
China. They are known as the Chaoxian in China and as the Joseonjok in Korea, 2.5 million Koreans live in
China. In China, they are not accepted. They are not Chinese. In Korea, they
are not accepted. They are “gyopo.” For Koreans living in China, it can be a
difficult road. They live in a country that does not accept them, and their
home country treats them as if they are foreigners. For the these Koreans, the Joseonjok, life is much harder. Unlike Koreans
who grew up in western countries and tend to be much wealthier, Koreans who
grew up in China tend to be much poorer. Since they don’t have as much money,
they face more discrimination. They are often blamed for stealing native Koreans’
jobs and for crime. For Koreans born in China, they are the bottom of the
racial hierarchy in Korea.
My boyfriend is a native Korean, born and raised in Korea.
He spent two years in the US and speaks English almost as well as any native
speaker. Anytime we’re out in public and Koreans speak to him and in English,
my boyfriend gets excited. He’s a foreigner.
He feels flattered that Koreans think he’s a foreigner, and it makes him feel
proud. Yet sometimes I don’t think he realizes the implication of what being a
Korean foreigner is like. Yes, he’s excited that Koreans are treating him as a
foreigner as they do me, but being a true Korean foreigner is not that
romantic. He doesn’t understand the isolation and discrimination that comes
with being a “gyopo.”
Not all Koreans treat non-native Koreans like I have
mentioned in this post. Yet the Koreans that do this have often lived or
studied abroad themselves. It is oftentimes the Koreans who have had little to
no international experience (whether that be from traveling abroad or even
having a foreign friend) that treat non-native Koreans like “gyopos.”
“Gyopo” is a word that I hate. I wish sincerely that it was
a word that didn’t exist. But it does and the stigma is there. I hope that one
day Koreans can accept all non-native Koreans and treat them as equals, but
that day seems like a long way off.
Racism isn’t limited to being charged extra or being refused
service. Young Koreans are just as guilty, though perhaps in a more innocent
way. For some Koreans, having a foreigner friend can make them seem worldly.
They’ll brag to their other friends that they have a foreigner friend; you
essentially become their pet in a handbag.
Guys and girls will date foreigners just to learn English.
Korean guys will try to hook-up with foreign girls to add a ”notch in their
belt.” Foreign girls, especially Americans, are perceived as slutty, and we are
approached as such. Foreign men are seen as sexual devients, trying to steal
away the poor, innocent Korean women.
And if you’re a foreigner dating a Korea, be prepared for
stares. Mixed race couples, while becoming more common, are still seen as an
oddity. The automatic assumption is that the Korean is dating the foreigner to
learn English. If a Korean girl is dating a foreigner, the couple will get
dirty looks because they think that the girl is a slut. If it’s a Korean guy
and a foreign girl, the foreign girl will be thought of as a slut. There have
been many occasions where my boyfriend and I have gotten hate glares from
people. It should be noted here that most of these assumptions and glares come
from older Koreans.
My boyfriend is Korean and I’m an American foreigner. Even
though we met in the US and have been dating for more than a year and a half,
my Korean friends still try to warm me that he is dating me to learn English.
Why do they keep telling me this? Because it is such a common practice for
Koreans to date foreigners to learn English. I became mad at one of my students
who was going to study in the US when he told me that he wanted to date an
American just so he could learn English. What’s worse about this is that
Koreans who do this don’t even see it as wrong.
This video is about 2 years old and caused a firestorm when
it came out. MBC never apologized for its racist content and things like this
still air on Korean news.
In summary, not all Koreans are racist, and to think as such
is blithely ignorant. Yet racism does exist, and it’s a huge problem. Korea’s
government is pushing for more foreign tourism and foreign businesses to enter
Korea. They are riding the Hallyu wave and are encouraging its growth, which is
great. Yet, if Korea truly does want more foreign tourists and foreign
business, it must stop letting these racist attitudes go unchecked. Being
barred from a restaurant, bar, club, or taxi simply because you are a foreigner
is simply unacceptable. These businesses need to be held accountable for their
actions if Korea really does want to become a part of the globalized world.
While Korea is a wonderful country filled with some of the
kindest people I have ever met, racism is still a very large problem here. Korea
is a “homogeneous” nation. They are a nation of one race—Koreans. And while
this certainly isn’t a bad thing, the idea of having a homogeneous nation
creates racist attitudes towards non-Koreans.
This article was posted the other
day. Koreans are very upset by this and have been calling Bali racist. This article, along with some other incidents that have started to bother
me about Korea’s attitude towards foreigners made me want to write this post.
So why did I share a link about Koreans getting banned from
establishments in Bali? Because this is the exact same thing that happens to foreigners
here. Foreigners are well aware of bars that ban foreigners *cough* Ho Bar
*cough*. But bars aren't the only ones that are guilty; clubs, restaurants, and taxis
are just as guilty.
This video (not mine) was taken in Itaewon. Itaewon is
(in)famously foreigner and English friendly. The fact that this video takes
place in Itaewon is astounding. As more foreigners enter Korea (as part of the
government’s plan to attract tourists and foreign business), the fact that this
trend is increasing, rather than decreasing is simply disturbing.
When I first came to Korea, I witnessed very little racism.
The worst things I saw were Hongdae bars banning American military and old men
asking if I was Russian (aka, was I a prostitute). Yet in these last 2 years in Korea,
I have seen a dramatic shift in attitudes towards foreigners by business
establishments.
When I was living in Ulsan, my Korean and foreign friends
and I went to go to a club. They let our Korean friends in, but refused to let
us in because we were foreigner. After telling them off, we all left the club.
A few weeks later, a Canadian friend and I were trying to buy 김밥 (gimbap) for an activity we were doing with our students.
The store we went to was famous for having the best gimbap in the area, and as
expected, it was very crowded. We order the gimbap and were told it would be
about 20 minutes until we got out gimbap. 20 minutes passed and the restaurant still
hadn’t made our gimbap. They were now making orders for Koreans who had ordered
after us. I decided to go inside and ask why it was taking so long. When I went
inside, I looked the prep station; it was organized so that the order receipts
were at top so that the orders could easily be seen and made. Our receipt was
till at the end…with the word 외국인 (“weigookin”, foreigner)
written in large letters across the top. As each new order came in, our order
would be moved to the back. I talked to the owner and told her to cancel our
order because we didn’t want to eat there anymore. The owner threw a fit and
demanded that we pay even though they had not even made our gimbap. After a
while of arguments, they finally made the gimbap, but tried to charge us extra.
Incidents like this are far from rare nor are they limited to places outside of Seoul.
It’s not unheard of for foreigners to be refused service by
a taxi, or charged extra by them. Restaurants are guilty of this practice, too.
Clothe markets like in Dongdaemun will
charge extra if you’re a foreigner.
I will continue the rest of this topic in the next post.
**Disclaimer** Not all Koreans and Korean places are like this. Most Koreans are incredibly friendly and welcoming. Don't let the 5% change your view on other 95%.
Most every foreigner gets this. After living in Korea for about
3 months, other foreigners tend get…annoying. Annoying to the point where you
make every effort to avoid typical foreigner hangouts. Why do you do this?
Because you don’t want to be the “stereotype.”
What is the stereotypical foreigner? They are the ones that
drink an obnoxious amount of 소주 (soju), run around the
streets shouting and hollering, and shoving their bottles of soju in other
people’s faces. They are the ones that talk loudly on the subway and sit in the
seats for the elderly. They are the ones that talk about their “Korean
conquests.” They are the ones that the Korean media makes their racist news
reporting on. They are the ones that refuse to adapt to the culture that they
have decided to live in.
For many foreigners, our biggest complaint about other foreigners
is their drunken antics. Yes, Korea is a heavy drinking culture, yet the difference
between a Korean getting drunk to a stereotypical foreigner getting drunk is
quite large.
Koreans drink. Good God, do Koreans drink. Yet while they
drink such a staggering amount of alcohol, they tend to be relatively civilized
when it comes to getting drunk. Here’s what I mean. Koreans tend to be much quieter,
less rambunctious, compared to the stereotypical foreigner. For Koreans,
drinking is as much of a way of getting drunk as it is a way of creating closer
bonds with friends and coworkers. I mentioned in a previous post that when
Koreans drink, what they say when they are drunk is taken as truth. Thusly,
they tend to be much more reserved when drinking compared to their western
counterparts.
Stereotypical foreigners drink. Good God, do they drink. But
I should say here, stereotypical foreigners drink, just like the stereotype is
that all Koreans drink an insane amount of soju. Yet when a stereotypical foreigner
(read, not all foreigners) drinks, as I mentioned above, his/her actions become
intolerable. The foreigner suddenly turns into this loud, obnoxious beast that
jumps around and beats his chest.
Skip to 3:25 to see what I mean by annoying foreigners. And I know, Eat Your Kimchi, it's like committing sacrilege, but this video really pisses me off.
I hate this video. This video depicts what so many foreigners
hate about other foreigners; the running around, the shoving soju in people’s
faces, and just being a general asshole. But here’s the thing, you can avoid
being these people!
Let’s play with a scenario. You have moved to Korea for the
first time. You have what I call the golden pass. For 2 months, you’re going to
be excited with Korea with its sights and sounds, and yes, drinking culture. More
often than not, you will be the stereotype. In my belief though, you need to be
the stereotype for a bit so that you can learn the culture—so that you can
learn what and what not to do. After 2 months, your views on foreigners will
start to change. Bingeing on soju becomes less fun (those hangovers are
becoming a real bitch), you notice how loud the subway is when a group of
foreigners get on, and all of a sudden, you make a terrifying transformation—you
become a Korean. At 3 months, the thought of a large group of foreigners in one
place almost revolts you. This is the transformation that most, but not all,
foreigners make.
So how do you keep from being the stereotype? Drink, but monitor
yourself as you drink. Try not to get wild. Don’t run around shouting and
telling Koreans to take shots with you. It’s rude. When you get drunk, DO NOT
say 안녕하세요 (Annyeonghaseyo, “Hello”), to every Korean on the
street. It’s rude. Try to be quite and respectful to the people on the street
around you. Are you drinking in a Hof? Go ahead and play games and be loud.
That’s what Hofs are there for. Are you drinking in a bar or outside of a
convenience store? Be quieter because a bar is not a place for games and a
convenience store is in public.
When it comes to public transportation, remember, you’re in
public and you need to speak quietly (think a whisper) or not speak at all. Do
not sit in the elderly seats. They’re reserved and open for a reason. If you
see an elderly person get on the bus/train, please give up your seat for them;
1) it’s the polite thing to do and 2) you make the rest of us foreigners look
good. Also, if there’s a child, please give up your seat for them as well.
아줌마 (Ajjumma, “Middle-aged
woman/auntie”) rant: If it’s an ajjumma, you don’t need to up your seat. Every
foreigner and Korean deals with the bitchy, evil ajjumma. We all hate them. My
advice is just to pretend you don’t see them or understand what they’re saying.
(Quick rant as to why I will never give up my seat to an ajjumma again. I was
on the subway and a woman came on with her small child. I gestured to the woman
to come over so that I could give up my seat to the little girl. As the mother
walked over, and I started to stand up so the little girl could take my seat,
an ajjumma snaked her way in and stole the seat from the 4-year-old!!! A 4-YEAR-OLD!!!!!!
They have no shame!!!!! I hate-glared the bitch for the rest of the ride.
Thankfully someone else gave up their seat for the little girl, but good Lord
was I pissed at that ajjumma. I have many other horrible ajjumma stories (as do
all foreigners and Koreans alike), but this one is the most poignant. Remember,
ajjummas are not elderly and you are not required to give up your seat for
them.)
To sum it up, the best way to avoid being a stereotypical
foreigner is by not acting like a jackass. Don’t be rude or disrespectful to
people. Be quiet in public places. Be polite when you drink. These are easy
things to do, and if you do them, Korea can become a better place for all
foreigners.
If you’re going to be living in Seoul, you need to have a
T-Money card. What is a T-Money card? It’s a transport card that lets you get
ride the subway and bus system here in Seoul and can pay for taxis as well.
T-Money can also be used in most cities outside of Seoul.
T-Money cards can be purchased at just about every subway
station. If there is not a T-Money card machine (always next to the text
dispensers), than you can buy one at the convenience store in the subway. If
you buy from a convenience store, you’ll have a lot more options than buying
from the machine.
If you get you card from a machine (don’t worry, there’s an
English option to make purchasing easier), simply select the card or phone charm
that you want and insert your money. Cards cost 3,000 won and there are a few
varieties to pick from. If you would rather have a cell phone charm, the cost
is 5,000+ won. Depending on the store, there will be several varieties of cell
phone charms to choose from.
Getting a T-Money money card is very helpful and cost
effective. The usual subway fee is 1,150 won plus a 500 won deposit. The bus
fee is also 1,150 won. However, with a T-Money card, the subway and bus fare is
1,050 won (and no deposit). The T-Money card has one more useful option: you
can transfer from the subway to the bus or visa versa for free. Without a T-Money
card, a transfer to the subway to a bus and visa versa costs an additional
1,150 won.
To charge your T-Money card, you can charge it at the subway
station at the charging machines or charge it at most convenience stores
(GS-25, 7-11, C&U, etc.) You can charge in amounts of 1,000-90,000 won.
Outside of Seoul, the Cash Bee card is used. While the T-Money
card is accepted outside of Seoul, charging it is a little more difficult. So
if you’re not living in Seoul, you should buy a Cash Bee card, not a T-Money a card. Cash Bee cards are not accepted in Seoul.
If you decide to get buy a T-Money card from a store rather
than a vending machine, here is some useful vocabulary:
T-Money 카드가있어요? ‘T-Money kadue
ga issoyo?’ (Do you have a T-money card?)
