Christmas in Korea is a bit of a special thing. It's celebrated, yet it's not celebrated, and the way in which it's celebrated is completely different from how we celebrate in the west.
Christmas has really changed a lot since when I first came here 3 years ago. Actually, the first Christmas I celebrated here, I don't think I saw a single Christmas tree. But now, 3 years later, there are Christmas trees and decorations filling streets of Sinchon. Stores all over are playing Christmas music. Hell, there was even a Christmas market a few weeks ago. The Christmas spirit is actually here!
Now why is this surprising to me?
Here in Korea, Christmas isn't exactly traditionally celebrated. In the west, it's a religious holiday and family holiday. We get together with our families, open presents, and eat a huge dinner. But here in Korea, it's a couples' holiday. Christmas day is probably the biggest couple holiday of the year. Christmas is the day where couples flood the streets, look lovingly into each other's eyes, and pay for ridiculously over-priced meals and motels. So romantic.
Because Christmas is a couples' holiday, there generally isn't much Christmas spirit here in Korea. In the past, you might have seen a tree or two, maybe heard a Christmas song (but that was only played on Christmas day). But this year, people seem to really be embracing Christmas. Kind of.
I was walking this evening with my Korean friend excitedly talking about all of the Christmas trees and music and how it reminded me of home and family. My friend was generally confused as to why I would think of my family on Christmas. For my friend, Christmas is purely a couple's holiday. While I was happy about the Christmas spirit, he was depressed about it because he doesn't have a girlfriend.
This of course isn't to say that all Koreans treat Christmas like a couples' holiday. There are many churches that put on Christmas plays and celebrate on Christ on Christmas Eve and day. Yet they are in the minority.
So even while the spectacle of Christmas is growing here, it seems that the meaning isn't changing. It still isn't about the birth of Christ or being with family; Christmas is still a Valentine's Day like holiday that is just an excuse to go on a nice date with your significant other.
