Itaewon Freedom

I will start off this post by stating my utter disdain for 이태원 (Itaewon), or the foreigner’s district. Known as “Itaewon Freedom,” Itaewon is the old red light district (and still unoffically operates as one) of Seoul, and is a haven for foreigners.
 

 Itaewon Entrance

Many come to Itaewon for the eclectic food, which ranges from American to Australian to Thai, or for clothes since many foreigners cannot fit into small Korean sizes. Many others come for the nightlife at the clubs and the many foreign bars. Others though, come for the gay nightlife in Itaewon, one of the few havens for gays, lesbians, and transgender in Korea.

Itaewon though, can be a dangerous place. As mentioned earlier, it is a red light district (many natives try to claim that it is the former red light district, but no one can deny the throngs of prostitutes that come into the bars at night looking for their next customer). It is one of the few places in Korea where it is not safe for a woman to walk alone at night. Often times, there are people passed out on the streets, aggressive thugs harassing people, as well as an army of drunken foreigners who are not as good at controlling their tempers when inebriated as Koreans are.

A very common sight

While those are the negatives, Itaewon does offer positives. It was the one place in Korea that I could find a hair salon that didn’t butcher my hair (Green Turtle Salon: **EDIT** Green Turtle Hair salon has moved, as well as their amazing hair stylist. His new salon is Salon de Michel, and his salon is located near the main entrance of Itaewon. Please support this awesome hair stylist!), and it offers a little slice of home for many with its collection of foreign food restaurants. It is also one of the few places in Korea where almost everyone speaks English. When you become deprived of your native tongue for a long period of time, you have no idea how refreshing this can be. Itaewon also offers clothes for foreigners, albeit extremely overpriced and with shopkeepers who are not willing to haggle.

Food is the one great positive about Itaewon. The restaurant alley is filled with restaurants that have food from all over the world. From Mexican, to Brazilian, to French, and Japanese, you can find just about any country's food in Itaewon. Be warned though, the food,while mostly very tasty, on average costs a lot more. Expect to pay 15,000-20,000 won per meal on average. 

 

For those who belong to the LGBT community though, it can be the one place where they can feel truly welcome in Korea, which is notoriously homophobic. The so-called “Homo Hill” offers a string of bars and nightclubs for the gay and transgender community (most lesbian bars however are located in Hongdae). It is also the location of Seoul's Gay Pride Parade.

Homo Hill

While many hate Itaewon, myself included, many have an equal amount love it. For foreigners, it should be a place that should be checked out at least once. For some, it will leave a bad taste in their mouth, for others, it will become a second home. 

School: What to Expect

The general assumption of an American student when they go abroad is that their college classes will be easy. These students will be in for a rude awakening when it comes to classes in Korea.

For Koreans, studying is a way of life, because for them, taking tests is how one advances in society and determines their future success. Because of this test-taking society, classes are far more difficult than the average American is used to.

Most Korean universities base their class grades off of two tests—the mid-term and the final—, a class project, and attendance. These four things are what your entire semester is based on.

Tests will be difficult and require more intensive study than Americans are used to. As a studious student before I came to Korea, I was shocked by the amount of studying I was expected to put in to succeed in my classes. For mid-term and finals, don’t expect much, if any, sleep. Those precious hours need to be spent studying, memorizing every nook ad cranny of the notes and book.

Korean universities, or at least Korea University the university I attended, were very strict when it came to attendance. A student was allowed 5 absences before they were kicked out of class. Some teachers are even stricter. One of my teachers only allowed his students 2 absences. I was absent from his class one time because I was too sick to come to school. After this absence, he warned me that I only hada one absence left. My second absence was when I broke my foot and was literally unable to walk to class. He gave me a second warning never to miss his class again or I would fail. Both of these incidences, I told my professor that I would be unable to come to class, but as one can see, he was very strict.

But it’s not as bad as it seems.

Group projects are something that most Americans loathe as most of the time only one student does the work for the entire group. Americans will be happily surprised to learn that Koreans work well in groups and no one is left with all of the work.

Most grades are relative. This means, even if you make a 65 on a test, if the highest grade in the classes was, say, 67, congratulations, you just made an A.

The most important thing to do in order to succeed in Korean classes though is to become friends with your professors. Not only is a great contact to have a professor’s favor of you, but also, this liking leads to a better grade. Remember when I said the grades are relative. If your relationship with your professor is a good one, expect an A.

To form a relationship with your professor, visit with after class, go to their office and talk with them during office, buy them little treats, like snack from the bakery a small thing of tea or coffee. If a professor offers you side work, take it, it will work in your favor.

While classes might at first seem intimidating in Korea, in the end, they are great fun and a wonderful learning experience. Education standards are higher in Korea than they are in America; so expect to come back to America being bored in your classes. You might miss the thrill and valuable life experience of being challenged.

 

Hongdae

서울 (Seoul) is a vibrant city with something to do every hour of the day. One of the most unique places in Seoul, is the area of 홍대 (Hongdae). Hongdae is the arts district and is home to the top art university, 홍긱 대하교( Honggik University), in Korea. These students have carved out an area of Korea, making it like nothing else in the entire country.

Hongdae is home to a place where graffiti is encouraged, daily free live music shows plays, artists sell their own homemade crafts, yummy foods, unique cafes, and vibrant night culture.

Hongdae is perhaps best visually known for its stunning street art. Some of the most famous pieces of street include the Tiger Rabbit (which is now sadly gone), a playground covered in graffiti, and the month of October. The month of October is a special time in Hongdae. This is when Converse comes and holds a contest; encouraging students to paint the most unique Converse shoes are the Hongdae area. October also marks the month where the street artists display and sell their best work. It is an event not to be missed!

Saturday is a big day in Hongdae. This is the day where the Saturday market is open. The streets are flush with artists selling their crafts, from paintings, to watches, to earrings; the street market has it all. 

Food in Hongdae, like all of Korea, is everywhere. But in Hongdae, competition is stiff, so unique places pop up. One of the most famous restaurants is not actually a restaurant; it is a food stand called Bob’s Barby. For Australians, it’s a little piece of home offering Mutton Pies, but it is also famous for having the best hot dogs in Hongdae. For me as Texan, Mexican food is an integral part of my diet. Thankfully Hongdae has me covered with some very tasty Mexican food at the restaurant, Dos Tacos. And for those that really want a piece of home, there is also a Taco Bell. 

 One should know how important cafes are to Koreans. This being said, Hongdae, like everything else, has made cafes in its own ways. Hongdae offers a huge variety of cafes from the cutesy Hello Kitty Café, cat cafes (where you can play with cats while you enjoy your coffee), to a butler café.

Hongdae though is perhaps best known for its pulsating night scene. The streets of Hongdae are littered with bars, Hofs (a place to drink beer and soju), as well as small and large clubs. On Friday and Saturday nights, the streets are packed with the young people of Seoul out to take a break from the strains of university classes and have a great time.

The best night for going to the clubs in Hongdae is the last Friday of the month. This is Club Day. Club Day is where you pay 15,000 원 (won), or roughly $15, and you get into a select list of 15 or so of the best clubs in Hongdae. Be warned though, because while fun, the clubs immensely crowded on this night, and some of the patrons can be a little rowdy. 

Korean BBQ

There’s truly nothing like Korean BBQ. When my Korean friends and I muse about what we miss most about Korea, BBQ tops the list for most (소주 (soju) also tops the list, but we’ll get into that later.

So what is Korean BBQ? Well, it encompasses a whole range of meats that you grill yourself. Vegetarians beware. Dishes range from pork belly (삼겹살 (samgyeopsal)), to tender slices of beef (샤부샤부 (shabu shabu)).

샤부샤부 (shabu shabu)

There are so many choices when it comes to BBQ, and usually restaurants will have a particular specialty when it comes to it. So one restaurant will focus on 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal), and another one would focus 샤부샤부 (shabu shabu).

A 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal) resturant

The most popular Korean BBQ dish is 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal) or pork belly. Imagine bacon, but thicker, fattier, and 100x more delicious.

삼겹살 (samgyeopsal)

Now, 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal) is generally drunk with Korea’s seemingly favorite alcoholic beverage, 소수주 (soju).

수주 (soju) has a similar taste to Nyquil

As mentioned in previous posts. 소주 (soju), is the equivelent of Korean vodka, but a lot less tasty than actually vodka. Somehow though, with 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal), 소주 (soju) turns from the shot usually dreaded, to a drink that pairs quite well with the meal.

삼겹살 (samgyeopsal) is also traditional drunk with beer. Now, most westerners are a not a fan of Korean beer, and all things considered, they are right in their taste. Korean beer tends to be water and favorless, but it works magic on 삼겹살 (samgyeopsal).

The wide selection of Korean beers

Korean BBQ is best enjoyed with a group. It’s a great way to cut loose at the end of a stressful school and laugh over crappy beer and eat delicious food. Don’t miss out on this delicious culinary experience.

Yummy. 

Drinking Customs

In connection with my last post, drinking in Korea is an integral part of its culture. Drinking though, comes with its own set of customs, and knowing these customs is crucial.

           

First comes accepting a drink. You NEVER pour your own drink. It’s rude and it comes with the saying, “If you pour your own drink, you will be alone for 20 years.” Your senior will generally pour your drink if you are drinking with work colleagues, or by your business partner in a business meeting. When accepting the drink, you want to hold your glass with your right hand, and then, you put your left hand under the glass, put your left hand under your elbow, or accept with both hands. You put your left hand under the glass if the person is very important, i.e. your boss, and you put it under your elbow if it is someone closer, i.e. a friend, and with both hands for accepting a shot of soju. NEVER ACCEPT A DRINK WITH ONE HAND, even when you are with friends.

Accepting a shot of soju with both hands

This goes the same for pouring the drink. Once your drink has been poured, you are expected to the pour a drink for the person who poured yours. Always do this with both hands with the right hand pouring and the left hand under the bottle.

Notice how both of his hands are on the bottle. 

When it comes to actual drinking, there are even more rules, but these rules usually apply to when it is a more formal setting of drinking such as drinking with colleagues or business partners. When drinking from your glass, turn your head to the side, facing away from the senior member of the group (this person is usually your boss, a senior member who is hard to approach, or someone who is older than you by ten years, not a friend or close colleague), cover the drink with your hand, and then drink. This is because it is rude for the senior of the group seeing you drink alcohol.

Now these rules seem so strict, but try to follow them. If you don’t get it precisely, do not worry. Koreans will be delighted with the fact that you are trying and forgive the mistakes.

The Importance of Drinking

Drinking is to Korea as Texas is to steak. It is so essential in fact, that knowing how to hold one’s liquor is essential in advancing in the business world. For someone like me, who never drank before coming to Korea, it was a bit of a challenge to go out every weekend and be expected to get drunker than an alcoholic at a music festival. But I soon came to realize the importance of drinking in Korea and the incredibly important customs that come along with it.

Drinking, in Korean culture, is a way to form friendships and business alliances. Korea is a Confucian society, and this leads to it having a very rigid social structure as well as customs. This leads to a high level of conformity and almost complete lack of individuality. Drinking, for Koreans, became a way to escape the social norms. In Korea, when you drink, you are becoming yourself. In the West, there is forgiveness for things said while drunk, because we believe that you are a different person while drunk. This just the opposite in Korea. There, you are held highly accountable for your drinking actions, as those are the actions of your true self.

If you’re someone who does not drink, I have bad news for you, you’re going to have to learn. You’ll soon find though, that drinking with Koreans is an experience in and of itself. Quite honestly, it’s a blast. As I mentioned earlier, I never drank before coming to Korea, and since coming back, I no longer drink in America—in most part because drinking in America is no fun compared to Korea. If you’re still uncomfortable with drinking, then here’s a trick of the trade: if you’re drinking 소주 (soju, or Korean vodka), then simply and DISCREETLY poor your soju into a glass of water (or throw it behind you if there's no water). Just don’t get caught or you will insult everyone, especially the one who is pouring your drinks and paying the bill.

In my next post, I will go more into the customs of drinking. Until then 원쎳 (one shot)!

Dealing with the Reverse

Reverse culture shock doesn’t just hit you when it comes to classes, with how you dress, or how you eat. It hits all aspects of your life, from how you interact with others to simply missing the culture that became your life for an extended period of time.

I lived in Korea for a year and half. It was simply an amazing, fantastic, describable yet indescribable experience. Korea became my life. It became how I talked, how I walked, ate, slept, studied, and interacted. It dominated my way of thinking. It became my second set of lungs, bringing me vital oxygen to sustain my life.

Now, displaced, my second set of lungs is now shrinking. I am suffocating.

I go to bed early, no reason to stay up. I wake up early, there is studying to do. I eat small meals, all low in fat. Why mess up the balance in my body with something fried? Every facet of my life, I find I am comparing it with Korea. It is whirling me into a deep depression that I am struggling to swim my way out of.

On Sunday, I turned 21. Even though my mom had traveled 6 and a half hours to see me, even though my old friends slapped together a party for me, I still cried. I cried as I read messages from Korea. I cried as my Korean and International friends wished me a happy birthday. I heaved as my body ached to be back home in Seoul, surrounded by familiar sights, sounds, tastes, and talks.

I angered myself as I cried. There was no reason. I am home. I need to get used to it. But that is like telling broken toe to stop hurting.

My anger with myself fueled me to change. I cannot live in a rut. The only one who can improve the situation is me. So, I have begun to take steps to help me tackle this mountain of reverse culture shock.

Firstly, one of the things I am suffering from the most is the lack of international exposure. For a year and a half, I was rarely around Americans, and though on one hand it is great to be amongst my people again, it is a struggle because I now cannot interact with the many cultures that I once did. To tackle this hill, I have joined two clubs. The first club is the Conversation Partner Program where I help international exchange students improve their English. The second club is the Foreign Diplomats where I will assist students who are about to go abroad.

After this, finding a job to fill any free time will be of utmost importance. I’m used to being busy every second of the day. Lag time frustrates and depresses me. I will try to find a job that will expose me to international students or at the very least, some other part of Texas other than Lubbock.

I never thought I would have to deal with reverse culture shock, or at least deal with it in the way that I am. So I must take steps to rid myself of it. Small steps, yes, but steps nonetheless. 

Readjustment

When you start calling a place home, it is difficult to forget what it taught you. After living in Korea for a year and a half, Korea became a place that left a deep impression on me and gave me habits that will never leave me. I never thought readjusting to American society would be so difficult.

Crowds I am used to, so trips to the mall or grocery store to pick up small things came with ease. It is things like driving and dressing that cause me the greatest trouble.

Crossing a street still takes 5 seconds of hesitation, making sure no one will run the red light and hit me. Traffic is now doable. I’m no longer constantly on edge for people looking for 5 feet to cut me off. But with every car’s swerve, I hold my breath, waiting for them to rush into my lane. I feel danger.

Dressing, I am finding, has become the hardest to get used to. There was not a day in Korea where I went without make-up. There was not a day where I did not dress my best to attend class or merely walk on the streets. But, amongst this sea of American students, I now stand out. My hair is neatly kept, a fresh layer of make-up is applied to my face, and of course, I am wearing fine clothes. I sit wearing these things amongst ranks of sweatshirt and pajama clad students. I am alone.

I walk through campus, amazed by the amount of space it takes up. Why does it need this much space? Why is it organized like this? Nothing flows. The buildings are harsh and obtuse, haphazardly placed throughout dusty ground with no consideration of how it fits in its surroundings. I cringe.

As I walk past campus food courts, I shudder, nearly pinching my nose shut. I am amazed at how fatty and fried the foods are. There is no consideration for health. The price shocks me even more. I can get a single sandwich for $5 whereas I used to be able to a get a full me with side dishes for $3. My wallet aches.

When classes begin, I find myself sighing with relief; there are quizzes AND homework assignments, not just 2 exams. I look at the students around me who groan about the course load, but I smile. I am a better student?

Korea is still in me. A month should have been enough time to adjust myself back into Western society, yet here I am, still stuck in the East. I am alone. I am singled out. I am special. I know the world.